How to keep your refrigerator running during a power outage

Published 2026-10-03 · Prices estimated, verified at merchant · Evidence: manufacturer spec sheets

A refrigerator is usually the most important thing to keep powered in an outage — food spoilage starts within about 4 hours without power (per FDA guidance). But most people buy the wrong size battery: too small and the fridge dies at 2am, too big and they overpay by $400.

Here's the math, then the products that fit it.

Step 1: Know your fridge's appetite

Most full-size fridges draw 100–200 watts while running, but the compressor cycles on and off — roughly 1/3 of the time. Startup surge can briefly hit 800–1200W, so your power station needs enough surge capacity too.

Step 2: Match the math to a product

You need a station whose capacity (Wh) covers your number above, with surge watts above your fridge's startup spike. These three cover most households:

Step 3: What could go wrong

• Undersizing. A 268Wh station runs a 150W fridge for under 2 hours. Fine for phones — not for food.
• Forgetting surge. If the station can't handle the compressor's startup spike, it shuts off. Check surge watts, not just continuous.
• No recharge plan. For outages over 12 hours, pair with a solar panel or plan to recharge from a car.
• Lead-acid UPS units (like the APC models) are great for WiFi but won't run a fridge — wrong tool.

The short answer

For most households: a 1000Wh-class LiFePO4 station (EcoFlow Delta 2, Jackery 1000 v2, Bluetti AC180) keeps a standard fridge alive through an 8–12 hour outage with room for phones and lights. Smaller stations are for devices, not refrigeration.